BEIT
AVRAHAM BIBLICAL TOUR THROUGH ISRAEL ~
Shomron (Samaria)
Monday, May 12, 2014, our guide for the day, Will Setz
first showed us the topography of the route we were going to take today. The
so-called Derech haGav"- road of the back, runs all the way from
Lebanon in the north to the Red Sea in the south.
The high hills/mountains of this area form the biblical 'Heartland'.
Here, God gave His people many promises. Beit El (Bethel)'s and Hebron's
mountains are about 1.000 meters high, while Jerusalem lies at a height of 865
meter.
Just after going through the military checkpoint at Pisgat
Zeev, Will gave us a short explanation of the area that was given to the
Biblical tribe of Benjamin. Jacob called his son a 'ravenous wolf', hence
you'll find many road signs with a wolf. We were now 'behind' the wall which
presently covers 60% of Israel, and protects its citizens against terror
attacks.
Geva Binyamin (the hill of Benjamin) is
also called Adam (see Jozua 18:24). It is situated between the Arabic Jabah
and Mikhmus (Geva and Michmas).
At about 839 meter above sea level lies Gibeah (of Saul),
Tel el-Ful (hill of beans) in Arabic. Gibeah was a very important
city in Bible times. Judges 19-21 tells us the story of the Levite and his
concubine. Israel's first king, Saul, ruled 38 years from Gibeah (1 Samuel
8:31). In the time of the divided Kingdom the city is mentioned by several
prophets: Hosea 5:8-10; Isaiah 10:29). During the siege of Jerusalem in 70 AD
the 10th Roman Legion camped here.
Between 1948 and 1967 this area was in the hands of the Jordanians.
On this spot, where king Saul had reigned, King Hussein began to build a summer
palace. It was never completed, because Israel conquered the territory during
the Six Day War.
Not far from Gibeah, on the side of Road no. 437 we pass a
stone wall called "Kubur Bani Yirsae'il" – "the
graves of the Children of Israel", which are about 2000 years old.
Archeologist and Bible scholars believe that the grave of
Rachel is here, and not as supposed near Bethlehem. Genesis 35:19. Joshua 18:23
mentions the city Farah, also called Efrat (has the same Hebrew root). Because
this town was situated in an area which had many barley and grain fields, it
was called "Beit Lechem" – House of Bread.
Barley and grain is still being cultivated in the valleys |
The Arabic name kept the Hebrew tradition alive. In the 19th
century, this helped the archeologists to locate and find many original
Biblical cities.
Barren hills carry sound for long distances. That's why it
is possible what Jeremiah describes in 31: 15 that the mourning for Rachel
could be heard in Rama.
Standing above the settlement of Migron We had a
beautiful view over the area, in the direction of Michmash and read the
story of Jonathan and his weapon bearer in 1 Samuel 10; 1 Samuel 13-14. The two stone teeth in the wadi are called Bozez
(Philistine side) and Seneh (Israeli side).
According to the Bible Migron was the area where Saul and
his 600 soldiers pitched their tents before attacking the Philistines who were camped in Michmash (1 Samuel 14:2) with the dry riverbed (wadi) between them.
God used Jonathan's seemingly suicidal mission to gain a great victory over the
Philistines.
Ma'aleh Levonah means "the ascent
of the frankincense". The area was known for its bushes giving off white
fragrant resin. This was used as frankincense in the Tabernacle in Shiloh, not
far from there. In Judges 21:29 we read about a village with that name. The
Arabic village still carries the same name: Al-Lubban ash-Sharqiya (east
Levonah).
It had been an unforgettable day. We had so much to ponder about.
On February 13 1918, British troops prepared to attack the
Turks also camping at Michmash. The British army knew they would loose many man in this
attack and that evening, Major Gilbert leafed through his Bible in search of a
name that seemed to elude him. He found the story in 1 Samuel 13 en 14 and
after reading it, he awoke General Watson to share the story with him. Figuring
that the area had not changed much since Biblical times, the general sent out
scouts. They found the pass, which was lightly guarded by the Turks.Instead of sending out a brigade, that night the general
sent an infantry unit through the pass, between the stones of Bozez and Seneh,
that overpowered the Turkish guards. The next day, presuming they were
surrounded by many British soldiers, the Turkish soldiers panicked and ran
away. A few thousand years later, Jonathan's tactic again proved successful.
Deir Dibwan is translated with
"the monastery of the Council".
According to Will this was the place
where the prophet Elisha, on his way to Bethel, was taunted by a group of
children. "Bold head" they called him. 2 Kings 2:23. (Because Elisha
cursed the children, two bears mauled 42 of them. Deir Dibwan (Doobee = bear in
Hebrew) – the monastery of the two bears – that seems more plausible.
Mizpah/mitzpeh
is a watch tower. We saw several spread in the countryside. In Biblical times
families lived in them during the harvest season. They also had a military
function when part of a city wall.
Road no. 465 is also called the Trans-Samarian Highway. This
ancient road from Shechem (Nablus) to Jerusalem has become much better compared
to the picture taken in 1911!
On our way to Mt. Gerizim (near Shechem) we drove through a
long village called Huwara. It was well known because of its excellent
car mechanics. Before the Intifada (uprising) these Arabs used to work in
Shechem (Nablus). When business closed (due to the many terror attacks) these
mechanics opened their own car repair shops in Huwara – with great success!
Passing a water pipe shop, Will honked his horn. "On
our way back we'll pay a visit to my friend," he told us.
Today, the Tappuach junction is freely accessible. During
the Intifada it looked like a military stronghold with many security measures
to protect Israelis against the constant terror attacks. Kfar Tappuach is a
village near this biggest central junction in Israel.
From this point one can travel through all parts of the
country.
Joshua 12:4 speaks about a village Tappuach (Apple). The
fields belonged to the tribe of Menashe, but the village belonged to Ephraim.
It lies on the Road of the Patriarchs, which Abraham, Isaac and Jacob travelled
on their journey south.
Towards Shechem, same direction as the map |
Via the Jewish village Beit Bracha (House of Blessing) we
ascended a steep road up to Mt. Gerizim (Jebel et-Tor). This for the Samaritans
holy mountain is the home fora bout 376 Samaritans, the rest of the group live
in Holon, near Tel Aviv.
Opposite Mt. Gerizim (886 meters) lies Mt. Ebal (938 meters),
with Shechem (Nablus) in between. The Canaanite /Israelite city was called Tel
Balata – now a notorious refuge camp.
Balata refugee camp |
(Deuteronomy 27:11-13.) During the Roman Empire this
ancient city was called
"Flavia Neapolis". Because no one could pronounce
it, the people called it "Nablus".
modern day Shechem (Nablus) |
Overlooking the city of Shechem stood a house like a
palace. Will told us it was built by an Arab who had become very rich from
helping the Americans during the Gulf War. He created beautiful gardens and
imported marble from Italy and Greece to decorate his palace.
On our way down hill we passed through the Samaritan town, and took time for a photo shoot with some women and their children.
Passing by a natural spring, we had another quick opportunity to take some photos - it's so beautiful there!
Around 2 p.m. Will's friend in Huwara welcomed us with Arab
hospitality – freshly brewed sweet coffee. His road side water pipe shop didn't
receive many customers, but he enjoyed our visit. It was a real 'cultural
experience' to use the toilet above the shop and having to climb stairs that were
lacking a railing.
Shilo (Tel Shiloh) is situated on a fertile valley
in South Samaria, on the "Road of the Patriarchs".
The valley is the
geographical border between Judah and Samaria. In Biblical times, for 369 years
Shilo was the spiritual and administrative center of the Jewish people.
Joshua
18:1 tells the story how he cast the lot for the different tribes. In this
place the Tabernacle stood, and Hannah prayed for a son. (1 Samuel 1:3).
Will showed us around the archeological dig, we read
different Scripture passages and watched a movie about the area. The Aramaic
text doesn't say "Shiloh" but "Mashiach" – anointed. In the
Byzantine period (about 1700 years ago), 4 Christian churches were build in and
around Tel Shiloh. During excavations in 2006, beautiful mosaics were
discovered – the most unique one (for a church) was a Star of David.
Road no. 437 brought us back to Jerusalem, where we arrived
around 5 p.m.
And check our agendas when we could plan another trip with Will – to Hebron!